IntoAlbania (Innovative Tourism in Albania)
Tourism development funded by USAID
Into Culture
Marmiroi Church
Written and Photographed by Sarah Goolishian
January 2019
One of Albania’s Truly Hidden Treasures
Most famous for its spectacular beaches, Albania’s Southern Riviera reserves a very particular church hidden away in this beautiful landscape that is well-worth exploring.
Scattered all around the country, high in the mountains or nestled by the sea, are incredible historical monuments, churches and archeological settlements of antiquity. Some of them are easier to locate than others, but the more a site is hidden away the more captivating it becomes. Marmiroi Church is definitely along the path less traveled, but that is precisely what makes this 12th century Christian church characteristically unique.
About
Pale colors dominate the facade of this church which, rumor has it, took its name after the marble quarry that constantly rumbled nearby. This small church is listed as a cultural monument and is now protected and cared for as a cultural heritage site. The church is first noted in historical records dating as far back as 1307. Although this church has some structural similarities to churches in Bulgaria and the former Yugoslavia, some researchers have pushed its potential construction date further back to the 12th to even 10th century AD.
When entering the small religious space, you can still see some remnants of painted religious adornments in the corners along the ceiling. Hopefully, with the current restoration efforts, this church will regain some of its ancient charm.
The Road Less Traveled
Getting to this little church does indeed require some amount of effort and a sense of adventure. Once you get away from the center of town in Orikum and you are surrounded by the impressive mountains, all of your trekking efforts are quickly rewarded. The fields surrounding the church are often used as pastures by the nearby Albanian farmers who keep flocks of sheep and cows. More likely than not, you will be greeted by either thirty friendly, fuzzy faces as there bells jingle along their collective path to their next pasture. Or maybe some friendly Albanians who live close to the church and are always curious and welcoming to tourists.
If you ever find yourself among one of the many fantastic beaches along the Southern Albanian Riviera during the summer, make sure to tale at least a day or two to venture further into the cultural heritage of Albania by exploring churches, castles and more.
A Bit About Albanian Hospitality
Know that upon stepping foot into Albania, you will have armies of helpers at your side every step of the way. More often than not, Albanians will drop with they’re doing to help you find your way. They love coffee and would love to buy you a coffee. Albanians are well-aware of some faults in the system and want tourists to feel at home. Often personally seeing to it that you have a good time while visiting their country.
A Few Albanian Words will Take You a Long Way
For better access to their hospitality, a little bit of Albanian goes a long way. Keep in mind that in major Albanian cities, most people have a good handle on English. However, to fully experience the small towns, you may choose to invest a few moments prior to your trip to learn some basic phrases. This way, the locals can guide you to the best places, making your visit exponentially richer.
Busses
Busses usually congregate in large parking lots or in clearly designated bus terminals. In larger cities, these bus terminals are the most common and are easily recognizable. Inside the bus, above the dashboard, there will be a schedule that details departure and arrival times. Keep in mind that each bus has its own schedule. Many busses make stops on their way to a destination so when you first get on the bus, tell the bus driver your final destination so he makes sure to drop you off at the right stop.
Rent a Car
Choosing a mode of transportation depends on your preference and budget. As mentioned above, in Albanian you can either rent a car, travel by taxi, bus, or furgon. Renting a car can be a great option if you have the budget. It cuts down on your traveling time and gives you the leisure and freedom to truly explore the country. It can be expensive relative to other modes of transportation but the local prices are still affordable for most tourists. You will find car rental agencies at the airport and inside the reception halls of most major hotels in several Albanian cities.
“Furgon” (Fur-gon)
Local taxis that are retrofitted passenger vans
If you’re more of the backpacker type, traveling by bus or furgon is the ideal way to reduce traveling stress and ultimately save more money. Ignore your initial gut reaction that may steer you away from getting into an unmarked van with strangers. It’s actually totally safe! So long as there’s a destination sign on the dashboard, then you’re good to go. Furgons are a hybrid between busses and taxis. Mini-van sized, they’re often smaller than busses. They sometimes have schedules but most often will wait until the van is full in order to depart. The local furgon varies from city to city but most are found around city centers or along roadsides. If you mention the word “furgon” most locals will guide you to them. A great chance to use your Albanian!
Always Ask!
To conclude, be sure to always ask locals for help at any point during your journey. In Albania, asking around not only makes things a lot easier but introduces you into the culture. So get your passports ready and don’t be shy! This small country has a lot to odder and won’t disappoint in the least. From stunning beaches, mountains, and ancient churches to ‘happy hour’ coffees- you will remember this trip for years to come.